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Rowe states that wearing deep mourning for any occasion beyond that of the widow was in extremely bad taste. Eliza Bisbee Duffy defines fabrics suited for deep mourning in The Ladies and Gentlemens Etiquette: A Complete Manual of the Manners and Dress of American Society (1877): Serge (heavy wool) Bombazine (wool and silk) Alpaca fibre Delaine or de laine (fine combing wool) Merino (thinner/softer wool) Crape or crepe (silk) for collars, cuffs, bonnets, and veils Duffy prohibits the wearing of jewelry and states that all pins or buckles must be black

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The airy billowy dress is a favorite as a summer wear